Tracing Archives & Flavors: The 90-Year History of Toko "OEN"

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An old black and white photo of the colonial building at Jalan Pemuda No 52, showcasing the early history of Toko Oen Semarang — Source: Toko "OEN"

Nine decades is no short time for a culinary business entity to remain standing, especially amidst the onslaught of ever-changing modern food trends. The colonial-style building at Jalan Pemuda No. 52 (formerly known as Jalan Bodjong), Semarang, bears silent witness to how a flavor has been preserved across four generations.

In celebrating its 90th Anniversary, the Collabox Creative Hub team had the incredible opportunity to look back at the history of Toko "OEN". We opened digital archives, traced Dutch newspaper clippings from the 1930s, and dissected the history of Toko "OEN" behind the breakthrough menus of its time.

The Beginning: From a Bakery to an "Ijspaleis"

A vintage 1937 photograph of the first branch in Yogyakarta, marking the beginning of the history of Toko Oen. — Source: Toko "OEN"

Based on our archival research, the history of Toko "OEN" actually began long before they set foot in the city of Semarang. The first traces were found in 1910 in Yogyakarta. At that time, Oma Oen (Liem Gien Nio) opened a Dutch recipe bakery named after Oma and Opa (Oen Tjoen Hok). Among Europeans, this place was highly famous as OEN’s Koekjeswinkel, which translates to Toko Kukis Oen (Oen's Cookie Shop).

In 1922, the shop that originally only sold cookies expanded with the addition of various Dutch, Chinese, and Indonesian dishes. This success prompted Oma and Opa to expand by opening branches in Batavia/Jakarta in 1934 and Malang in 1936.

A classic archive photo of Toko Oen in Batavia, reflecting its business expansion during the Dutch colonial era. — Source: Toko "OEN"

In early 1935, Opa purchased a building with a grill room facility at Jalan Bodjong number 52, Semarang. When they first opened their doors to customers on May 4, 1935, the history of Toko "OEN" in Semarang recorded a bold rebranding. They no longer referred to themselves as a Koekjeswinkel, but instead declared themselves as an Ijspaleis or Ice Palace.

The designation of the name "Ice Palace" was a symbol of luxury. Why so? At that time, ice cubes were highly exclusive items. Since it first entered Indonesia around 1846, ice had to be imported all the way from Boston, United States. Although local ice factories existed since 1885, ice cream-making machines were still very expensive and rare. Toko Oen was one of the few places capable of bringing in this machine, making it the most prestigious leisure spot for the Dutch elite in Semarang. In 1936, their operations grew stronger with the issuance of an official business license from the Semarang Municipality Government.

Crossing Four Generations in the History of Toko "OEN"

The survival of the Semarang branch for nine decades is an extraordinary historical achievement. So, how could the history of Toko "OEN" continue while times kept changing?

The answer lies in their marketing strategies since the colonial era and very strong family loyalty. The Algemeen Handelsblad voor Nederlandsch newspaper dated May 1, 1935, shows how smartly Toko "OEN" advertised. They announced the opening of the restaurant with the attraction of dance music at 8 PM, a highly popular entertainment trend at the time.

A snippet of a vintage Toko Oen advertisement in a 1930s Dutch colonial newspaper, promoting the Ice Palace. — Source: Delpher.nl

Their advertisements often featured tempting lifestyle phrases, such as: "Where will you spend your time and have fun? Just go to Toko Oen." Their reputation shone so brightly that the local newspaper De Locomotief frequently featured their reviews. This excellent reputation even led other nearby shops to include the name Toko "OEN" as an address landmark in their advertisements to make them easier to find.

From the hands of Opa Oen Tjoen Hok and Oma Liem Gien Nio, the management passed to the second generation, Oma Sien (Oen Liep Hwa). Now, Mrs. Jenny as the third generation has prepared Alexander, Alexandy, and Alexondo as the fourth generation to ensure the flame of this legendary kitchen never goes out. The history of Toko "OEN" Semarang survived beyond the branches in other cities due to their ability to maintain relevance without sacrificing identity.

Preserving the History of Toko "OEN" Through Culinary Masterpieces

A tale of nostalgia will not survive without authentic recipes that never change. In celebrating this 90th anniversary, the history of Toko "OEN" is also celebrated through dishes that transcend time. Here are the breakthrough flagship menus whose recipes have been strictly guarded across generations:

Oma's Tomatensoep met Gehakt-Balletjes

A brilliant adaptation of Dutch tomato soup. Oma modified the usually thick broth texture to be more liquid and light to suit local tastes, while maintaining the authentic recipe of traditional Dutch meatballs (gehakt-balletjes).

Huzarensla

Known as traditional Dutch potato salad. During the colonial era, this dish was highly luxurious and often served during celebrations. The distinctive feature of Toko "OEN"'s Huzarensla is the touch of pineapple that provides a unique fresh sweet flavor.

Bestik Lidah Toko "OEN"

This is the true crown jewel. Derived from Hollandse biefstuk, this menu uses beef tongue that is processed through an extra-long cooking stage to produce a very tender texture, making it one of the most special menus.

Nasi Goreng Istimewa

A silent witness to cultural acculturation. Rooted in Chinese family recipes, Oma Oen added a secret Dutch touch by incorporating fragrant roomboter (butter), creating a soft and luxurious fried rice flavor.

Oen's Poffertjes-Ijs

Behind its deliciousness, there is a unique story we uncovered. In the past, the poffertjes mold ordered from abroad turned out to be incorrect, it was spherical like takoyaki, not flat. This historical mistake was actually preserved and became the iconic shape of Toko Oen's poffertjes known to this day.

Explore the History through Toko "OEN" Exhibition

Writing down these research findings is certainly not enough to encapsulate all the magical nostalgia within it. For those of you who want to reminisce about the sweetness of past memories, or for the younger generation curious about the culinary traces of the Dutch-Indies, this is the perfect time.

The layout of the exclusive Toko Oen 90th anniversary archive exhibition in Semarang, displaying the history of Toko Oen.

Come and visit the exclusive 90th-anniversary exhibition of Toko "OEN"! This exhibition, which encapsulates the track record of the history of Toko "OEN", is held right inside the Toko "OEN", Jalan Pemuda, Semarang.

Witness cross-generational family photo documentation and valuable archives proving how this restaurant survived the test of time. Feel the colonial atmosphere, and make sure you taste the legendary menu lineup right where the story first began. See you at the Toko "OEN" exhibition!